Fat Witch Brownies

A few years ago, I received the optimal birthday present: a gift tin packed with a dozen Fat Witch brownies. My life has never been the same. These chewy squares of perfection are an unforgettable experience, both in their plain chocolate glory or studded with dried cherries or walnuts.

Although the Fat Witch store is located in the Chelsea Market, you can find their luscious chocolate treats at coffeehouses around the city. When I lived in Park Slope, I picked up my weekly quota of brownies at the Tea Lounge on 7th Avenue. Today, I serendipitously happened upon them at Sicaffe Espresso (29 John St., 212-676-0237), one of my favorite downtown alternatives to Starbucks. Sicaffe only carries the miniature "baby" Fat Witch brownies, but they are devastatingly rich. Have one (or four) with an extra-strong cappuccino triestino.

Fat Witch: 75 9th Ave., (212) 807-1335.

Sable's Smoked Fish

Do not go into Sable's if you have dinner plans. The jovial countermen at this legendary food shop will ply you with morsel after tasty morsel of smoked salmon. "Try this one. Do you like your salmon saltier or fattier?" And then, when you have exhausted the salmon possibilities (Scottish, Irish, Norwegian, Eastern Gaspe, etc.), they will tempt you with smoked trout, eel, sturgeon and whitefish. By now you will be quite stuffed, but you will not be able to say no to crostini topped with the "World's Best Lobster Salad" and the "World's Best Crabmeat Salad."

This is exactly what happened to me today. I went into Sable's with the sole intention of buying a chocolate babka for my grandmother, when I was suddenly bombarded with complimentary bites of Irish smoked salmon, Sable's "sushi" (smoked salmon wraps filled with salmon salad), and lobster and crabmeat salads. My evident appreciation of the snacks compelled the countermen to keep offering me more of them. I could barely concentrate on my purchase.

Of course I bought more goodies than I'd intended to. But just as I was about to make my exit, a voice called after me, "Wait, have you tried our chopped liver?"

Sable's Smoked Fish: 1489 2nd Ave., (212) 249-6177.

Malagueta

The malagueta is an extremely potent hot pepper which grows in Brazil. When blended with olive oil, it makes a piquant molho, or sauce, which livens up any dish. This wonderfully powerful sauce can be found at the malagueta's namesake restaurant in Astoria. (Make sure to ask for it, as it's not listed on the menu.)

Tonight, my friend and I spooned the molho de malagueta over everything but our dessert! We started out with an order of acaraje, tasty black-eyed pea fritters topped with sauteed shrimp and vatapa (a puree of bread, cashews, fish and shrimp. Although this puree was billed as "spicy" on the menu, it was actually rather mild). Since I was a bit too liberal with the hot sauce, I welcomed the opportunity to cool my mouth with exotic juices such as caju (cashew tree fruit juice).

Since it was a Friday, we couldn't order the feijoada (Brazil's national dish, which is only served on Saturdays at Malagueta). So, we enjoyed a shrimp and red pepper stew in coconut gravy, which surrounded a large mound of white rice. I quickly devoured the six jumbo shrimp and then tried my friend's entree, the roasted filet of pollack. The generous portion of delicate, slightly sweet fish was moistened with shrimp sauce and topped with more vatapa.

Sitting behind me was a lively table of people celebrating a "dad-to-be." When I looked to see what goodies they might be consuming, I noticed a plate of mandioca frita. Malagueta offers the fried tuber as an appetizer with grilled Brazilian sausages; it's also an addictive side dish on its own. (I'll order it next time.)

There are three dessert options at Malagueta: milk flan, coconut pudding and passionfruit mousse. We ordered the mousse, which was creamy, refreshing and slightly tart. The accompanying cappuccinos were excellent.

Malagueta offers free delivery to the lucky residents of Astoria.

Malagueta: 25-35 36th Ave., Astoria, NY, (718) 937-4821.

The Grey Dog's Coffee

The stretch of Carmine Street between Bleecker and 7th Avenue evokes the main drag of a college town. Storefronts sell rare vinyl, guitars, used books, and Tibetan jewelry. The Grey Dog's Coffee is right at home in this atmosphere, with its blackboard menu, gargantuan Rice Krispie treats and proximity to the "Unoppressive, Non-Imperialist Bargain Book Store."

Unpretentious and homey, the café appeals to the young and young-at-heart with a menu of fresh-baked goods, omelettes and jumbo sandwiches. The sandwiches are served on your choice of homemade bread, which varieties include olive, jalapeno, 9-grain, basil, and rosemary-garlic. This lovely fresh bread is sliced so thickly as to be sufficient for three sandwiches. Try the tuna melt with cheddar and ripe tomatoes on country white, or the smoked turkey and Brie with sundried tomato and raspberry mustard. If you're in more of a salad mood, the Cobb salad does not stint on avocado.

Accompany your sandwich with a nice strong cup of java and a chocolate-chip cookie the size of a schoolroom clock!

The Grey Dog's Coffee: 33 Carmine St., (212) 462-0041.

Picket Fence

Picket Fence is the first place in Ditmas Park to serve American comfort food! Although this quaint restaurant is delightful enough to be a boon for any neighborhood, Cortelyou Road ached for it. Owner/chef Graham, a fresh transplant from Riverdale, has created a warm and inviting space in which to enjoy his creations. You can eat in either the sunny yellow dining room or the backyard garden where Graham grows thyme, rosemary, and tomatoes.

You'll find many of your favorites at Picket Fence, albeit with a creative twist. Do you crave meatloaf? There's a wonderful turkey version with a side of buttery Yukon gold mashed potatoes and green beans. Looking for buffalo wings and Blue cheese dip? Order the spicy barbequed fried chicken sandwich sprinkled with Gorgonzola. Potato chip addicts can munch away at the chive-dusted garlic potato crisps. If you're looking for a light meal, have a bowl of chilled potato leek soup and a roasted corn pancake with lemon cream and smoked salmon.

For dessert, enjoy the homemade dark chocolate blondies, peanut butter cookies, vanilla-speckled creme brulee and a demitasse of rich double chocolate pudding topped by a cap of fresh whipped cream.

Ditmas Park residents will be happy to know that Picket Fence now delivers. No more traipsing to Park Slope for a burger!

Picket Fence: 1310 Cortelyou Rd., Brooklyn, (718) 282-6661.

Pepolino

This charming, hospitable trattoria, tucked away just below Canal Street, is a favorite of mine. My recent dinner there was a melange of vivid garden flavors; were it not for the sounds of the busy intersection, I could've fancied myself to be enjoying a summer meal in the country. The complimentary tomato-basil "flan," served in a pool of olive oil, was a luscious spread for a basket of crusty Italian bread. I saved a few thick slices of bread to sop up the tangy lemon cream sauce of my fresh tagliolini entree, which was topped with a bit of grated lemon zest. (On occasion, I have also enjoyed the pappardelle with tomato and thyme.)

For dessert, I indulged in the strawberry bavarese: a creamy dome of vanilla panna cotta smothered in strawberry puree. A few sips of espresso completed this satisfying supper.

Pepolino: 281 W. Broadway, (212) 966-9983.

Sweets News

Here are your Sweets News Stories for August 2, 2004:

Australian Homemade, purveyor of psychedelic Belgian chocolates (115 St. Mark's Place, 212-228-5439), will soon open a second location at 18th and Broadway. Australian Homemade sells luscious "Bonzers" (nutty chocolate squares) and "Dreamers" (imaginatively decorated chocolates with creamy soft fillings).

Who knew that cream puffs would become such a sought-after treat? The line at Beard Papa's Fresh 'N' Natural Cream Puffs (2167 Broadway, 212-799-3770) continues to grow. The store owners must have realized that the line will eventually reach the southern tip of Manhattan, so they have wisely decided to open up at Broadway and Astor Place.

Agua de Sandia

On a hot August day, what could be more refreshing than a tall, cool glass of agua de sandia? This traditional Mexican watermelon juice drink is featured at the Downtown Bakery, and I guarantee that it's as effective as a personal air conditioner (at least while it lasts).

Downtown Bakery/Mexican Food: 69 1st Ave., (212) 254-1757.